Disassembling Steel Frames (13/06/11)

Today in the morning some of us boys got told to disassemble 4 sheds that had steel framing. We were instructed to separate each house parts form each other so they wont get mixed together when others use it.

Us boys here disassembling the steel wall frames.

Trusses Up (13/06/2011)

Today me and the team started to get the trusses up and fix them to the top plates. We ran string lines to line up the middle part of the truss to keep each truss equal.

    

     <---------string lines--------->

Spacing between each truss was determined by a piece of wood measured at the correct spacing of 845 mm inside both trusses after it was in place we hammered 100mm galvenized size nails to fix them to the top plates.

<--Timber measuring the space between each truss.

<--Fixed with 100mm galvanized sized nails to the top plates.

We also used temporary purlins to hold & keep together the trusses, by using scrap pieces of timber left unused. 

7/06/11

On the site, waiting for our arrival for our roof trusses, eventually came and then we were able to continue with the process of the scaffolds by needing to finish bracing, hand rails, connecting couplers and the last side of the house. We also added kick boards along the inside of the standard poles and created a few stairs to get upto another platform with shorter sized planks.
Eventually we finished our scaffolding on our house and now ready to put up our roof trusses.

1/06/11

Down at the site today putting up our scaffolding for our unitec house, using poles as ledges, rails braces,temporary and standard posts.We scaffolded  the perimeter of our building at about the height were our first nogs are on the wall frames, worked at that height right around the house connecting each pole with coupler connecters.

After break we continued on our process of scaffolding through the day and braced the sides for extra support. we also ran a few ledges along the standards for hand rails for safety.
Put up the planks and had them laid on the metal poles and nailed so they wont move and fall off the poles.

30/05/2011

Started today in class working with Rich on our assignment 4543, going over questions in moodle and parts of the calculations. Soon after headed out to the site to finish pluming the corners & sides of the wall frames. We also ran string lines with a dodger block being our length of our top & bottom plate to the string line, the top and bottom plates were then moved to get an accurate position of the walls. We used bracing timber to brace the walls, once it was plum we would hammer a few nails into the brace to the wall till the top & bottom plate was in the correct position. All though we done some good work through the day progressed.

Team Rich

Long Day!!

Todays class done great work out on the site, we eventually were able to finish the flooring and get the wall frames up, struggled at first to get in the groove of it but was able to work well with the boys while the day went on.

Flooring

3.2.1        Explain using photograph’s, notes and sketches how the flooring was laid on the Unitec house.

You must cover: The type, sizes, direction of sheets, gluing requirements, cutting, nailing patterns, care, lifting, Health and Safety, etc. Include all fixings information as well.

Placing the particle boards, we had to find the full length of the joists and mark the middle. Then came out 800mm from the middle, we had to do this on both right and left sides of the middle mark. This mark is used for string lines to help guide the silver insulation.

Once the joists, and nogs are done. We then needed to use a planner to get the joists all plumb and levelled.

We also created a mechanism to give 100mm slack for insulation, for the floor of the house.

After laying down the insulation we then had to cut out 4 to 3 squares for a place to set the glue for the boards. This was 300mm spacing from each square on each joist.

Eg, of the glue placed into the squares cut out, only problem is that the glue sets within a 10 min period so you have to be quick placing the boards before it sets.

After the glue is placed  you then will need  to lay your boards 200 mm away from the 800mm, because the size of the boards is 1200 mm wide.so the measurements for the board is 600 mm  out from the middle.

To fuse both boards together and getting a tight seal, you will need to glue the sides of board and place them side by side. Use a chisel, and hammer it on the sides to the joists and push the board into the spot where it is getting sealed with glue. Making sure that the board is plumb and equal, you then hammer the boards down with nails.

 Continuing this process to whatever your plans are told.

Piles, Joists,Bearers

3.1.1        Explain using photograph’s, notes and sketches how you would set out the temporary piles, bearers and joists. 

You must include: Measuring, straightening, cutting, joining, nailing, selecting the timber, cambers, etc.

Jack studs are cut and placed at measurement where both jack stud and bearer will be equal  for the finished floor level.

Each jack stud is braced off on the sides on a 45 degree angle for extra support.

We then used H 3.2 exposed timber for the bearers, laminating each one together till it was plum and level.

Using 100 mm galvanized nails to laminate the bearers together by marking up and lining up 60mm outside from the width of the bearers and 250mm spacing from the length of the bearers.

Placing the bearers on top of the jack studs, and hammering 100 mm galvanized nails into the jack studs.

Nailing extra braces to the jack studs, bracing across the jack studs to help support the weight of the building.

Joists are measured according to the house plan and cut out to be placed on top of the bearers at a span according to NZS 3604.

There were different timber treatments we used in different areas of the joists, there were highly treated timber were we used in the wet areas like the kitchen, bathroom, toilets and used the less treated in normal parts of the house.

Once the joists were layed we then used nogs between the joists.

Profiling

3.1.1        Explain using photograph’s, notes and sketches how you set out your house site using profiles.

Cover: datum height, profile pegs and boards, string lines, Builders dumpy level and laser level, how to level batter boards, squaring up the house footprint, checking diagonals, etc.

Builder’s Dumpy level

 How to set out your house site by using profiles is firstly you would need to locate the datum points and the boundary pegs to figure out your datum height, after it is located you will need a dumpy level to figure out the height that you will be working off, and then run a string line along the outside of the boundary pegs to mark out your site.

Boundary pegs

Position profiles 900mm -1mm from outside of the building lines or whatever it says on your plans.

After positioning the profile pegs, you will have to calculate the finished floor level from datum and transfer the finished floor level to the braced pegs.

Batter boards are then attached to the profile pegs according to the F.F.L; if it’s not levelled correctly it can throw your whole foundation off. leveling the batter boards you will need to check if the pegs are plum and level to the ground floor.

Once your batter boards are in place and leveled, you then hammer a nail on to your batter board. Sighting across to the next of your other batter boards, add nails on each end. Then run your string line down the length and the width to each corner of your batter boards. This will locate the corner of your foundation.

Rule a tape measure and measure the corner points of the string line diagonally corner to corner to whatever measurement that is required. You should then have the same measurements in both directions. If it’s not, you must then move both nails to the measurement of one end the same amount of space until you reach your square number.

new blog

2.05.2011

Chris vui